What's Cooking: Thanksgiving 1789, when America got its 1st food coma

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On Nov. 26, 1789, President George Washington proclaimed the first national Thanksgiving Day, giving Americans their first official excuse to unbutton their breeches after dinner.

Fresh off ratifying that newfangled Constitution, Washington figured the fledgling nation deserved a day of gratitude – and presumably, pie.

Unlike our modern turkey marathons with instant mashed potatoes and canned cranberry sauce, the 1789 feast was decidedly more rustic. Colonial cooks didn’t have the luxury of last-minute grocery runs or YouTube tutorials. They had root cellars, prayers and an alarming amount of lard.

Washington’s proclamation called for “a day of public thanksgiving and prayer,” though he wisely didn’t specify how many pounds of turkey per person.

Here’s how to bring elevated flavors inspired by 1789 to your table, minus the wooden teeth.

Maple-Bourbon Butternut Squash Tart with Candied Pecans

Ingredients:

  • 1 sheet puff pastry, thawed.
  • 2 medium butternut squash, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds.
  • 4 tablespoons butter, melted.
  • 3 tablespoons pure maple syrup.
  • 2 tablespoons bourbon.
  • 8 ounces goat cheese or cream cheese, softened.
  • ¼ cup heavy cream.
  • 2 tablespoons fresh sage, thinly sliced.
  • 1 cup pecans, roughly chopped.
  • 3 tablespoons brown sugar.
  • ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper.
  • Flaky sea salt and cracked black pepper.
  • Honey for drizzling

Instructions:

Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss squash rounds with melted butter, maple syrup, bourbon, salt and pepper. Roast 25 minutes until tender and caramelized.

Meanwhile, toast pecans with brown sugar and cayenne until fragrant and candied, about 8 minutes.

Roll puff pastry onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Whip goat cheese with cream until fluffy.

Spread cheese mixture over pastry, leaving a 1-inch border. Arrange roasted squash in overlapping circles. Fold edges up, brush with butter, and bake 25-30 minutes until golden. Top with candied pecans, fresh sage, and a drizzle of honey.

This show-stopper would’ve made Washington weep into his tricorn hat.

Brown Butter Pear Galette with Cardamom Cream

Ingredients:

  • 1 pie crust (store-bought or homemade).
  • 4 firm pears (Bosc or Anjou), thinly sliced.
  • 6 tablespoons butter.
  • ⅓ cup brown sugar.
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract.
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon.
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom.
  • 2 tablespoons flour.
  • 1 egg, beaten.
  • Turbinado sugar for sprinkling.
  • 1 cup heavy cream, whipped with 2 tablespoons powdered sugar and ¼ teaspoon cardamom.

Instructions:

Brown butter in a skillet until nutty and golden. Add pears, brown sugar, vanilla and spices; cook 5 minutes until just softened. Stir in flour and cool completely.

Roll dough into a 12-inch circle on parchment. Arrange pears in the center, leaving a 2-inch border.

Fold edges over fruit, pleating as you go. Brush crust with egg wash and sprinkle with turbinado sugar.

Bake at 375°F for 40-45 minutes until deeply golden. Serve warm with cardamom whipped cream.

Colonial cooks could only dream of something this elegant – though they probably would’ve approved of the butter content.

The beauty of Washington’s Thanksgiving was its simplicity. No relatives arguing about politics, no television, no Smartphones, no pressure to make Pinterest-worthy decorations. Just gratitude, community and food that actually tasted like the thing it was made from.

Still, the impulse to gather, give thanks, and share a meal transcends any single historical moment. Whether you’re serving butternut squash tart or modern turkey with all the fixings, Thanksgiving remains what Washington intended: a pause to appreciate our blessings and the people around our table.

Just remember: If Washington could survive Valley Forge, you can survive your uncle’s political rants. Pass the pear galette.

Wishing you a very happy Thanksgiving.

Barry Cohen welcomes your thoughts, suggestions and feedback. For recipes or questions, email him at barrycohen210@gmail.com.